Recently we carried out an oil leak repair on a Case TR270 which could have been avoided if the machine had been given some TLC. While this post is specifically dealing with the TR270, we have noticed similar issues with all track type skid steer loaders.
The current owner had only purchased the machine 3 months ago – a 2012 model showing 1456hrs on the clock. He called us knowing he had a leak coming from the remote oil drain connection at the sump plug fitting of the oil pan. He said he could clearly see a crack radiating from the welded fitting at the oil pan & he knew there was an engine removal required to carry out the repair. In order to complete the current project he was working on he applied some epoxy resin to the oil pan to slow the leak down some.
Preparing the engine for removal
Plenty of dirt
Impression of oil pan in packed dirt.
Finding the painted floor
Long story short, the engine was removed; a new oil pan was fitted; the remote drain hose was eliminated; engine refitted – happy customer.
There are a few design issues with this type of remote oil drain system.
As the belly pan of the machine filled (to the point of it touching the sump) the remote drain hose becomes almost concreted into position – holding the hose quite firmly – the engine vibrates & continues to move as it goes on & off load during normal operating procedure – something has to give!
Cracks from drain plug
To our surprise, our local CNH dealer had the oil pan & gasket in stock – while 75% of most parts enquires require ordering in parts from the main warehouse – HMMM me thinks these maybe a problem…..
One of the other issues present with this model is that there are a number of steel hydraulic lines which live near the floor pan. With the rust problems which can occur here, these lines are literally ticking time bombs…… a couple of years back we had to replace one of these steel lines on a 420CT series 3 which was owned by a chicken farmer – it lasted only 300hrs! 🙁
Moral of the story here is keep your belly pans clean!
Rusty Pipes!
We are dealing with the same problem of dirt under the engine except it corroded a hole in the oil pan ,lost all the oil and the engine froze.Lucky we knew before we bought the machine because a complete engine is not cheap.I am impressed you got the twelve bolts out on the flywheel cover,we chose the two on the hydraulic pump.
Hi John,
Yes, these designs really are a problem.
As you have mentioned, without the preventative maintenance procedures, they can cost the owner a great deal of money.
Cheers
alrman
so what is the best way to keep the sump clear
how to remove build up without removing the engine?
Hi David,
You need to remove all the belly plates, raise the cabin, loosen the dirt – carefully – using a small prybar or large screwdriver, then hose it all out through the holes in the floor.
Notice I said hose, pressure cleaning just doesn’t do it too well, spreads it everywhere. (into electrical items too)
Once you get to see the colour of the floor – keep it clean by doing it regularly.
Sometimes it takes more than one go at cleaning to get it real clean & clear.
It sounds like alot of work, but it will literally save you thousands in future repairs – & if you get an oil leak in there you see exactly where it is.
Cheers
alrman
how many man hours did it take to perform this repair?
G’day Kelly,
Around 25hrs
Cheers
alrman
Hi Alrman
How do yo access the oil drain afterwards as the sump imprint appears well away from the access cover.
My TR270 has the sam mod as you have done but I can’t find the Drain.
Thanks Greg.
Hey Greg,
There should be a small access plate under the engine sump.
cheers
alrman